From NY Times –
by Ben Ratliff
Last Autumn a friend told me a story about Ryuichi Sakamoto, the
renowned musician and composer who now lives in West Village, New
York. Mr. Sakamoto, it seems, so likes a particular Japanese
restaurant in Murray Hill, and visits it so often, he finally had to be
straight with the chef: He could not bear the music it played for its
patrons. The issue was not so much that the music was loud, but that
it was thoughtless. Mr. Sakamoto suggested he could take over the
job of choosing it, without pay, if only so he could feel more
comfortable eating there. The chef agreed, and so Mr. Sakamoto
started making playlists for the restaurant, none of which include any
of his own music. Few people knew about this, because Mr. Sakamoto
has no particular desire to publicise it. It took me a few weeks to
appreciate how radical the story was, if indeed it was true. I consider
thoughtless music in restaurants a problem that has gotten worse over
the years, even since the advent of the music-streaming services,
which – you’d think – should have made it better. If I’m going to spend
decent money on a meal, I don’t want the reservation-taker, the dishwasher or someone from the back office to be cooking it; I want someone who is very good at cooking food to do it. The same should apply to the music, which after all will be playing before, during and after the eating. I would prefer that music not seem an afterthought, or the result of algorithmic computation. I want it chosen by a person who knows music up and down and sideways: its context, its dynamism and its historical and aural clichés.